Its Too Hot / Arkansas

We returned from Massachusetts post Thanks Giving and headed to the legendary Horsepens 40, home of Americas slopiest bouldering. Unfortunately for us the temperatures were HOT, mid 70's in fact. Much too hot for bouldering, and after one (still enjoyable day) of skin thrashing up sweaty rock, and with no prospect of cooler temperatures anytime in the near future, we decided to head to Arkansas.

Nine hours drive later we were in Arkansas pulling in to the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch . We arrived in the dark and parked the Whale not really knowing our surroundings, here is the view that greeted us in the morning.

Whale on the ranch

The Ranch was a pretty cool place to hang out with a pavillion for campers containing a grill, fridge and power. The bouldering whilst spread out was excellent in quality forming some very pure lines.

Kevin on the Crescent

West on the four star Jeffs Prow V9

One of the areas purest lines Momento V5

Cowell is another area about 20 minutes drive form the Ranch, and home to the famous Freds Cave. Set in woods 5 miles down gravel roads, with free camping just minutes walk from the boulders its a great place. It was here that we met Kevin and West (pictured) 2 climbers from boulder, who we wound up hanging out with for most of our 2 weeks in Arkansas. I had a great time climbing with these two, we seemed to always be able to inspire each other to an ascent. Of the problems we tried together we either all climbed them or all failed on them. Our last day we had a plan to try a problem called Ab Lounge followed by a problem called Off The Rails, both V10. We were all successful on Ab Lounge, West showing the way with Kevin soon after and eventually me after a good rest. A good start! Off The Rails was the problem we really wanted to do, however we only had vague directions as to where it was. Kim and I carried on climbing while Kevin and West went scouting, they returned successful but only after more than an hour of hiking around.

The problem really lived up to expectations, one of the best power endurance lines I've ever done, consisting of a series of slopey rails, leading to crimps and finally a slopey mantel.

I figured the beta out and did it 1st go on the link, its more than a few moves, and my fingers were pretty numb as I pulled through on the crimps, one of those moments when determination gets you through. West had a really good flash go using my beta but numbed out on the crimps, Kevin then did it with a bit of working, followed closely by West. A great end to our last day in Arkansas.

Here is a (low quality) video of my ascent.

New York

Whilst visiting Kims parent in Massachusetts, they took us to New York for a two days. Here are a couple of cool photos Kim took from the top of the Rockefeller building.

New Orleans and the Gulf Coast

So to try and bring us up to date.

We were in Alabama when a bruised rib (sustained from strangely manteling over a sharp hold) forced me to take a break from climbing. We had a week to go before we flew out of Atlanta to visit Kims parents in Massachusetts, so we decided to head down to New Orleans for a couple of days and then head out to the Gulf Coast for some lazing on the beach.

New Orleans

We got a great little hotel in the French Quarter, just 2 blocks from the madness of Bourbon Street, but still quiet. A happy couple of days were spent wandering around checking out stores, street performers, and old world architecture. The nights were spent combining those famous New Orleans staples of Food, Booze, and Jazz, the best being a great dinner at a place called Irene's Cuisine ( great review here http://adventuresinshaw.wordpress.com/2008/04/21/i-can-now-die-happyor-why-i-love-irenes-cuisine/ )

Irene's

This was followed by cocktails and jazz at Fritzels European Jazz Club on Bourbon Street http://www.fritzelsjazz.net/live/

Uncle Barry

The Fritzels All Stars

I really recommend Fritzels, there's no cover, a good atmosphere, great music, and the cocktails come by the pint!

The Gulf Coast 

After the excitement of New Orleans we headed up the coast for some chilling on the beach.

First up was Dauphine Island.

We spent 2 nights here, the campsite was 5 minutes walk from the beach and part of a sanctuary for migrating birds. From the beach we saw a pod of dolphins, maybe a hundred yards out, and in a small lake in the sanctuary several turtles.

The view from the campsite beach

Its a turtle!

We left Dauphine Island via a ferry ride to Fort Morgan (shown in map above), it was a beautiful day and we were lucky enough to see (presumably) the same pod of dolphins, sometimes as close as 15' from the side of the ferry.

The next destination was Fort Pickens, part of the Gulf Islands National Seashore, again camping a mere 5 minutes from the beach.

Fort Pickens beach

 Another barrier island, again amazingly beautiful, miles of white sand beaches and wildlife. The highlights were seeing a Nine Banded Armadillo really close as it came through our campsite, and watching Rays feeding in the surf just a 2 feet away. ( see photo below )

Rays feeding in the surf at Opal Beach

We spent 3 days and nights here before heading for the airport in Atlanta.

The Obed

Kim and I spent a quick couple of days here in a window of warm weather, before a large storm front blew in. The climbing here was great, like a concentrated version of the steep bits of the New. We probably won't make it here again on this trip, but we are psyched to come  back in the future.

Heres a couple of pictures of Kim on Heresy 11c.

Kim scoping out the 20' roof section

Goin for it

Stone Fort AKA Little Rock City

Yes its bouldering on a golf course! Quite the picturesque spot and perfect for anybody who is in to both bouldering and golf.
Kim and I have climbed here a couple of days now, there's some really great lines on perfect stone, definitely reminiscent of Fontainbleau. You have to pay $5 and sign a waiver at the club house and stay off the fairways, quite bizarre at first, but great to see that climbers have managed to create a balance with the land owner to provide access. It seems to be working out, on a busy weekend the owners might even make more money than from the golf!
A few shots....

Crescent Direct V7

Genghis Kahn V5

 
Were heading to the Obed now for a few days, but we will be back to Stone Fort for sure.

Showers/Model Trains/Rocktown

Showers

We  had 2 new shower experiences, 1 Showering in a Flying J gas station like the truckers, and 2 Using The Whales external shower for the first time.
Hmmm gas station showers, doesn't sound like an awesome experience. I'm not sure quite sure what i was expecting, dirt definitely, bacon grease and maybe discarded pornography. What we found was an emmaculately clean modern cubicle with toilet, wash basin and shower. I've stayed in plenty of cheap hotels/motels that didn't have as nice a bathroom as this, go Flying J.
The Whale has an external shower, so your kind of exposed. To counteract this I had made a shower rail and curtain from pvc piping and a tarp, which attached to the side of the van by a tile lifting suction cup left over from the bathroom. We assembled it for the first time since I hurriedly made it, and attached via its suction cup to The Whale. Two minutes later it promptly fell down, much to Daves hilarity, luckily we hadn't started showering yet. After wiping the suction cup and the side of the van with glass cleaner I'm pleased to stay it stayed up for 30 minutes and showed no signs of falling down.

The Shower

Model Trains

Model trains? I thought this blog was about rock climbing and aquatic mammals!
We've been in the area around Chattanooga for nearly a week, theres great climbing and also Chatanooga's kind of a nice city. We were checking out things to do there on our first rest day, and found that it is home to The Worlds Largest HO Model Railway, so of course we had to go.

About a third of the track

The attention to detail in this thing is quite amazing, $4 well spent. Along with scale parts of Chattanooga and the surrounding area it also contains real historical events and random amusing items.

Kangaroo!?

Political propaganda

Cat in tree

And rock climbers

Rocktown

For the last week, we've been hanging out at Rocktown, just over the border in Georgia. It's really a great place for us, free camping 5 minutes drive from the boulders in a beautiful setting, and on weekdays we have the place almost to ourselves.

The weathers has been warm again ( mid to high sixties) so we decided to climb here as it has steeper rock and therefore bigger holds and more shade.

Just another roof in Rocktown

The rock is bullet hard and tends to form pockets and huecos, but in places has strange iron bands forming perfect edges.

Kim IRON crimping on Contrail V5

The athletic nature of the climbing was initially a shock to the system but it seems like were both finally getting  stronger.

Even the V0's are steep, Kim climbing Zero Hero

Focused on Burst Of Joy, V8

Thinking about heading to The Obed for a few days to get Kim a sport climbing fix and then maybe Stone Fort  as the weather cools down the week after.

The New

The last week we've been in The New (river gorge). We arrived for "Bridge Day", where they close traffic on the 800' bridge and let people Base Jump off it for the day. Pretty impressive stuff to watch, looking from above it was hard to judge the distance to the ground, and it was quite worrying at times watching the people that pulled really late. One guy jumped in a wheel chair, apparently he was in the wheel chair due to a previous base jumping accident, properly mental!
Some of Kims friends form DC and Baltimore came over to hang out for a few days, it has been a great few days of social climbing, camp fire beer drinking, and another van "curry night".

The weather has been quite strange, for the last week its been between 70 and 80 everyday and almost too hot to climb in the sun. Pretty weird to complain about it being too hot at the end of October, although it sure beats rain!

Kim enjoying the unseasonal teperatures on Orange Ozwald 10b

Kim attempting Psycho Wrangler 12a

Bouldering at Hawks Nest Dam

We are now heading south to Chattanooga as its now forecasting snow, quite a change in 2 days!!

Set Off/Arrival/The Red

So we set off finally, a few days later than we hoped. 8 States later we were in Kentucky at The Red, the journey took 3 days and for the most part was uneventful.
The exception to this was when we stopped for the night to find we had no power to the back of the van (this just after we'd spent $600 on new batteries and wiring). Kim managed to locate a guy who was (kind of) an autoelectrician (he probably fixes more lawnmowers than RVs) along our route. It turned out that we'd simply sucked the batteries dry running the fridge on 12 volt (the guy who installed the batteries had told me turn off the charge to it occasionally as driving for 3 days could overcharge the batteries). Apparently we had sucked them so dry that there wasn't enough charge to power the system so it could recharge form the alternator, some kinda weird electronic chicken and egg scenario. All it took was to hook up to his mains electric for half an hour and we were good. The guy didn't charge us anything for his time, just told us to point out to others that despite being from Kentucky he had teeth, shoes and a brain!

Any way on to The Red and climbing and all that good stuff. We've been here over a week now and its just amazingly beautiful right now. The leaves are changing and everywhere is awash with color, reds and oranges and golds in all manner of shades.

Colors on show at The Red

  The climbing here is fantastic long golden overhanging faces covered in pockets. Did I mention that the routes are long? Kim and I are definitely feeling the lack of climbing this summer, endurance seems at an all time low for both of us, and anything even remotely long is kicking our collective asses regardless of the grade. Still to quote some Swedish guy in the movie " Hard Grit", "Its hard to be angry when the climbing is so good!", the only difference being that in the movie he then climbs his project, while we continue to flail on ours!

 

Fantastic pockets on golden rock, 3 images of Kim on the classic "King Me" 11b

We're heading to The New now for a few days to meet up with some of Kims old friends, looking forward to some technical (less pumpy) climbing, before returning back to The Red.

That's what we came for (not falling backwards off the top obviously)

1st curry cooked in The Whale, Chicken Dopiaza, a proud moment! 

The Mission

The Mission (starting 1st week of October 2012) is to drive from Portland OR, most of the way across the country, 2599 miles!!


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First up the Sport climbing meccas of the New and Red River Gorges

The New

The Red

After spending October sport climbing, its time for some bouldering. The classic venues of Horsepens 40 and Little Rock City AKA Stone Fort are up.

Horsepens

Stone Fort

With bouldering at the Lilly boulders, and some more sport climbing at the Obed also on the list

The Lilly Boulders

The Obed

These 3 areas are reasonably close together, luckily as the south east is not famous for its stable weather. Hopefully we will discover other areas along the way



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A = The new
B = The Red
C = The Lilly Boulders/The Obed
D = Horsepens
E = Stone Fort

As winter sets in and the weather gets worse, its time to head further south and back west. Roof climbing at its best in the winter sunshine, 1366 miles later its Hueco Tanks, Texas.

The Tanks

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The Total Route 4503 miles! Time to find out how good our marriage is!





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The Whale

Name - The Whale

DOB - Sometime/1995

Interests - Travel, Camping, Swimming
Favorite Food - Krill
Favorite Drink - Gasoline
Favorite Color - Blue

Meet the Whale, a 1995 Dodge Ram 3500, looks like a whale, drives like a whale, it must be a whale....!

Adopt a Whale

I was originally looking around some car lots to see how much used Sprinter vans were selling for. Whilst driving down one street loaded with used car lots, I saw the what I thought was a Whale in the corner of my eye. I decided to stop and investigate further, had this whale been mistreated, and how much would it cost to adopt?
The Whale didn't seem to have been mistreated, and was in much better physical shape than I expected for a Whale of this age. The Whale seemed very lonely living in a used car lot with nobody to play with, so after consulting Kim, I decided to adopt (for the fee of $10,000).
The Whale seemed happy!

So we had a Whale, the Whale had a 2 burner stove, fridge, microwave, air con, propane heater, sink with hot and cold running water and an external shower. All we needed now was a Mission......

The Whale

The Kitchen

The Bed

The Whales favorite color is blue