We returned from Massachusetts post Thanks Giving and headed to the legendary Horsepens 40, home of Americas slopiest bouldering. Unfortunately for us the temperatures were HOT, mid 70's in fact. Much too hot for bouldering, and after one (still enjoyable day) of skin thrashing up sweaty rock, and with no prospect of cooler temperatures anytime in the near future, we decided to head to Arkansas.
Nine hours drive later we were in Arkansas pulling in to the Horseshoe Canyon Ranch . We arrived in the dark and parked the Whale not really knowing our surroundings, here is the view that greeted us in the morning.
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| Whale on the ranch |
The Ranch was a pretty cool place to hang out with a pavillion for campers containing a grill, fridge and power. The bouldering whilst spread out was excellent in quality forming some very pure lines.
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| Kevin on the Crescent |
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| West on the four star Jeffs Prow V9 |
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| One of the areas purest lines Momento V5 |
Cowell is another area about 20 minutes drive form the Ranch, and home to the famous Freds Cave. Set in woods 5 miles down gravel roads, with free camping just minutes walk from the boulders its a great place. It was here that we met Kevin and West (pictured) 2 climbers from boulder, who we wound up hanging out with for most of our 2 weeks in Arkansas. I had a great time climbing with these two, we seemed to always be able to inspire each other to an ascent. Of the problems we tried together we either all climbed them or all failed on them. Our last day we had a plan to try a problem called Ab Lounge followed by a problem called Off The Rails, both V10. We were all successful on Ab Lounge, West showing the way with Kevin soon after and eventually me after a good rest. A good start! Off The Rails was the problem we really wanted to do, however we only had vague directions as to where it was. Kim and I carried on climbing while Kevin and West went scouting, they returned successful but only after more than an hour of hiking around.
The problem really lived up to expectations, one of the best power endurance lines I've ever done, consisting of a series of slopey rails, leading to crimps and finally a slopey mantel.
I figured the beta out and did it 1st go on the link, its more than a few moves, and my fingers were pretty numb as I pulled through on the crimps, one of those moments when determination gets you through. West had a really good flash go using my beta but numbed out on the crimps, Kevin then did it with a bit of working, followed closely by West. A great end to our last day in Arkansas.
Here is a (low quality) video of my ascent.




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